Explanation

There is no better way, commercially available, no matter what type of dyno you have, no matter how it�s equipped, to tune an engine. The ultimate way to �hone in� on the perfect setting is with the air passing around the bike, with the engine under the precise load with the actual air resistance you encounter & not simulated resistance.  This, along with �real world� air being supplied to the intake system, whichever type it is, & not a �simulated� supply. Also, those who think an O2 sensor is �gospel�, & the only way too tune, can now be extremely easily proven wrong. The use of a Flo-Commander will quickly prove that as well. A good quality sensor can though, at least help you get close, especially after any major engine mods, but it can�t & wasn�t intended to also make adjustments. 

Even a �controlled� environment dyno room, can only be �controlled� to a certain point. The dyno compensates for slight changes, but things take place that it can�t compensate for as well. What so many novice tuners don�t understand, is that in the time it takes to tear everything down, to get in & make a normal Needle & or Jet change, is by the time you�re done, the weather can be slightly different. Slightly in this arena can be the difference between 1st & 8th place! When the carbs are working in true synchronization, (with the FC), & the circuit transitions are cleaner, optimum fuel/air numbers do change some. A much finer tuned engine doesn't need as much fuel �dumped in� to help cover flat spots in the curve, so you will make better power, & the engine will last longer when you aren�t creating unnecessary carbon deposits etc. The use of a Flo-Commander will really make your �Jet Kit� shine as well, because you can make quick changes without the engine heat or weather being a major factor. You let the FC tell you what you need to do as far as needle or jet adjustments/changes.

We have done extensive real-time real world air-box & ram-air testing, at speed. Believe us when we say, there are so many misconceptions about �Ram-Air�, you could just about write a book on them. After combining, dyno room, flow bench work, straight-line high speed running, along with Road Race Bike testing, we have compiled all the info into the ultimate carburetion performance/tuning package. Fuel injection isn�t this easy to tune, not even close, not yet anyway!!

How it Attaches & Operates

We know many riders like to tailor external items to their own idea as they see it for their own situation. �Best� for certain items/areas are in one�s own preference. So, where an item can be installed in many different ways, for different purposes & situations, why not make it convenient for folks to �do it their way�? Once we had the Remote Control System working great, with the multitude of issues that had to be thoroughly addressed, we came up with a great way for you to tailor mount the control end the way you want to. We give suggestions & parameters you need to keep in mind, & even some examples.\ Once you have the system mounted, you simply turn the control knob richer  or leaner. It can be used with your main circuit or pilot circuit FC system. The other end attaches to your current FC Needle. We also will be manufacturing some models with S.S. needles that are integral with the cable.

Remote Adjustment System Features

The main body of the control end, is CNC`d from extruded aircraft aluminum, (the type material that someone started calling �Billet�, a few years ago, I guess because they thought it sounded better than �Extruded�! Funny though, very very few folks know what �Billet� really means, but we don�t want to spoil their fun, Ha!). Anyway, the main body is anodized for �anti-wear� reasons, and for corrosion & appearance reasons. There is a dial/detent plate that mounts solidly to the main body with pressed in Stainless Steel Aircraft Rivets.  The plate is S.S. as well, with machined concave detents at ea. 1/8 turn radial position. It is marked as well so you can see exactly where it�s set on. It will �click� into each position positively. The knob is also CNC machined from extruded aluminum. On it�s under side is a fully contained S.S. detent holder, S.S. spring, & S.S. ball. 180 degree�s from there is a set screw with a nylon patch so it will stay put when it�s not locked in. Once you have things set where you�re satisfied, you can turn it in a turn or two, & it will engage the detent pocket that is 180 degrees from the detent ball, so no one can �mess� with it. Especially if it�s a street bike or race bike that gets left where folks are around it when You�re not! The main body has a threaded mounting hole machined into the end. You get a few different �bendable� aluminum mount bracket blanks as well. The most trick (& important) feature of the unit is underneath it. We�ve designed a method, then kept simplifying it, till we had a very compact, �Rotation Limiter�. 

You don�t just have the usual �stop-to-stop� limit with basically one turn as max, but you can set it for several turns with a precise stopping point. This way you never have to worry about someone, (or yourself), turning the needle completely out of the Flo-Commander at the other end of the cable, enclosed in an air-box or etc., without realizing it. Using the remote will not allow you to go any leaner than the FC will allow.

The knob does not move up & down as you turn it, but it stays at a precise distance from the plate. It is all designed to work smoothly & trouble free, for a long long time. It is completely rebuildable if for some reason it ever needed to be.

The threaded shaft that passes thru the device is Stainless as well. Actually almost all the steel parts are Stainless.

The Flo-Commander end of the cable has an end already attached to it. This S.S. end fits over the head of your existing FC Adjustment Needle. It then has a S.S. set screw that you tighten against the side of the needle. As a safety precaution we machine a small groove around the cable end so it passes thru/over the set screw hole. A piece of safety wire can be placed into the groove, over the end of the set screw then pulled tight. We include grommets so you can put it thru the air-box wherever it�s convenient for where you want to mount the control end. A company that specializes in control cables makes the cable for us. We provide sheathing for you if you want to use it, but its not always necessary. One place it does come in handy though is where you have a longer portion of unfastened cable. It helps keep the torsion radial flex to a minimum. A metallic covering, along w/a more flexible lighter material cable covering is included. This is all covered in the instructions. We leave the control end of the cable long for you. We�ve taken the time to devise a way to be able to cut the cable at any length you wish, then install the CNC made S.S. end. The end is threaded so that it actually doubles as the one rotation limiter adjustment. This keeps everything light & compact, the way things on a bike should be. All items to do a typical installation are included. Price?, well it�s well under what a device like this would be from other typical sources, if it were even available elsewhere, period!

With this device you will learn a lot about carburetion very quickly, as real world, instant changes can be easily sensed & felt.

As you can tell we are not a typical �cookie cutter� company. Instead of being busy, out there �tooting our horn� about things we have taken to market, we are busy taking care of our loyal customers, along with diligently coming up with new innovations in area�s that apparently no one else wants to venture into. Patent Pending.

Our Flo-Commander systems are purposely designed to eliminate the possibility of adjusting to the point of being lean enough to hurt anything. Because of this fact, you don't need to worry you might remotely adjust it too lean without realizing it. You could turn the needle right out with a normal system, and it still won't get way too lean. The tubing adapters will limit the air, or the original restrictions will.

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